Slide Conversion Project 2016 Version 2

I've added a 100mm Macro Lens instead of using a zoom and extension tubes as well as a stack loader which makes it a lot faster loading and unloading slides.

That was 40 slides in about a minute.

Of the couple things we've learned doing this: Keeping the slides in their carousels isn't a good way to store the slides for the long term. If they are in any kind of moist environment the slides can begin to warp and they will jam the feeders of even the carousels they are in. 

The stack loader isn't any more forgiving than the carousels for warped slides, those I have to feed in one at a time and they take a lot longer to process. 

Storing your slides in something like this can save you a lot of space and aggravation if you care about the slides you are storing.

Adorama 35mm Size Master Slide Storage Box with Divider Boxes, Holds 2,160 Slides, 18 1/2x16 5/8x2 7/8"

5 responses
Sir, I too have many slides to convert and I have experimented with many of the devices for sale that purport to do this. I'm not happy with any so far. I'm intrigued by your setup. I'm considering converting one of my slide projectors. Your post does not give any detail on your conversion. So you mind sharing? Thank you.
The physical conversion is easy. Follow the instructions on your projector to remove the lens at the front. Then you need a way to diffuse the light in front of the internal glass lens. Warning: it's hot in there so check it multiple times I was concerned about it catching on fire but each time I checked it was only warm to the touch, I put a square of paper in front of the glass lens opposite the side with lamp. I was thinking a piece of vellum might work. Regular paper was too inconsistent and it made the lighting weird. What I ultimately found that was fine and quality enough was inket color photo paper. It had a consistent tight grain and stayed cool enough, so I didn't seek out any other solution.
Other hints was to set the camera in fixed focus and fixed lighting mode so it didn't try to change between shots, get it right for one slide, it's right for all of them. They are on the same plane, and same brightness, you can post-process the rest. Then two remotes, one for the projector and one for the camera. With a bit of practice and timing it was like what I think milking a cow would be like. Experiment with your lenses, I was suprised that my high end fixed fast lenses didn't produce the best results and I got different results from my Zooms. I settled on my 100mm macro lens. You can see my first setup with a zoom and some extension tubes here:
Thank you for your response. So, does the camera focus on the slide held inside the projector? That seems like it would be way too much light for the camera to deal with. Did you try finding a glass diffuser, your comment was that you did not search further after the inkjet paper worked? Thank you for your inspiration. Everett Ives
I didn't try finding any other kind of diffuser. A backup thought was to remove the inside lens entirely and just place something else there to create the diffusion. I focused on the image, I wasn't paying attention to whether it was focused on the slide. turn it on and focus it as best you can to create the sharpest image. I would capture more of the image than necessary, you'll find different slides have different dimensions enough to mess it up if you are trying to do your cropping while taking the picture. But in post processing all of the similar manufacturer slides I could crop and rotate in batches and get accurate results.